Penang, Malaysia

          While in Malacca, I had a conversation with Mike "Smithers" McMillan, who told me of a family connection he had to Georgetown, Penang. As a result, I did a little research. Penang or Langwaki? Two islands both on the Northwest coast of Malaysia. Penang, is a really melting pot of culture, culinary delights, and ethnic backgrounds. Langwaki is a duty-free island, noted for its natural beauty, however a little more touristy.

I went with Penang. I will say right now, I see Penang as a wasted opportunity. I will explain why.

The infamous "Love Lane."

         Firstly, I grabbed an evening bus from Malacca. Because of delays I didn't arrive in Penang until 3:30am. As a result, many of the front desks for all of the hostels were locked up. Also, I have been good this entire trip of doing adequate research in areas beforehand, so I don't get cheated. This is especially true with taxi drivers. And because, I was so exhausted, I failed to realize that the cab driver charged me too much, and then dropped me off in a "backpacker lane." It was ACTUALLY called LOVE LANE, and was full of prostitutes. 

          So it is safe to say, I didn't have a positive introduction to the city. The other unfortunate aspect of Penang, was the simple concept that there wasn't too much to do there. Aside from eating, which I admit, the variety was incredible, I found myself wondering around a lot, and never finding anything new around the corner. And unlike Malacca, (where everything was in walking distance), essentially anything worth visiting, was a long cab ride away. It was almost as if the city planners, designed the island with every attraction spread out for the sake of the transportation industry. I certainly benefited from the English Premiership season beginning, as a couple of nights involved me joining people of all walks of life in bars to watch "the English game." In Malaysia in general, Manchester United is popular, however the favourite seems to be Liverpool.

It's also safe to say, I felt most homesick while in Penang. Back home in Vancouver, there were lots of exciting things happening, and I was unable to be a part of it. Likewise in Brisbane, where I really created a home for myself. My empty dorm room wasn't helping things either. It also seemed like, right when I became loneliest, the weather took a turn for the worst. It was essentially a prelude to soggy wet Thailand.

            On my last day in Penang, I managed to do something quite worthwhile, and something I really should have done earlier. For starters, Georgetown/Penang is not Kuching and Malacca. Everything is NOT in walking distance. I should have learned the bus system in advance (less than $1 Canadian to essentially cross the island); the western coast of the island is BEAUTIFUL. What a shame, that I missed that for 3 days. Here are some pictures:

           
           Honestly, this was my formula for Penang. The further west I traveled, the more I liked it. I should have done a better job with area, but I still feel like it was the one city/area that I never really connected with. Every where I go, I tend to find little pockets and niches that I seem to fit into, but sadly Penang wasn't right for me.

Apparently, Brenden Fraser is not a popular actor in Southeast Asia.

The docks and piers on the west coast of Penang were awesome to venture out on and explore. I talked to many of the local fisherman who seemed somewhat surprised that I was talking to them. I think it was because the only way tourists tend to venture out that far, is with a large group.

Glamour shot. 

My favourite beach I have discovered thus far in Southeast Asia. Yes, I have seen whiter sand, and yes I have swam in clearer water. What is this one my favourite? Check out the features. Firstly, it was completely isolated and I was the only one there. Secondly, a dog followed me and played with me the entire time. Thirdly, there were giant rocks for me to sit on. Lastly, there was even a small cave to explore. Great find!

 And the sun sets in uneventful Penang. Oh well, not everywhere will blow you away. Besides, I'm sure I will have a fair share of memorable moments in Ko Phi Phi, Thailand, which is my next destination. See you on the other side. My passport is getting colourful.

M.I.A.

Well folks, I apologize, it has essentially been 3 weeks since I last wrote. I have been M.I.A. I have been filming a lot, meeting all kinds of folks, and have two memory cards full of photos. At the end of this trip, I plan to compile some kind of movie; however, this time I have failed to establish a general plan or style for the film, so it may be scattered. Just like this blog entry in fact. So last I checked, I wrote was in Kuching, so it is certainly time to move on. Our next scenic location is:

MALACCA, MALAYSIA

The Streets of Malacca

When I descended from the bus in the Malacca Bus Station I was initially weary. Everywhere I saw tourists; I had presumed by ignoring Kuala Lumpur (huge cities are generally avoidable for me) I was taking the less obvious path. Interestingly enough, there appeared to be very, very, few Western tourists. It became quickly evident that Malacca was very much an Asian tourist destination. Each and every bus unloaded loads and loads of travelers of Asian descent. Even in the wonderful hostel I found, most of the guests appeared to be of Asian descent. Considering my original plan was be in Malacca for two days (it eventually became four days) I was pleasantly surprised by the city.


OBSERVATIONS:

- Although I mentioned tourists, by comparison to other cities I have visited, this was on the lower end of that scale

- The Hostel was absolutely lovely. I felt bad for the owner of the hostel, because he said despite his best efforts, he was having trouble getting the hostel advertised in travel guides. Apparently, "once you are in, you are IN." As a result, one of the owners would go every day to the bus station, and try and convince people to stay. Turns out, it worked with me.

I think I found the entrance to the Secret Garden

- The city is small enough, that everything was within walking distance. In the middle of the city, was a fantastic green hill. It was actually a Chinese cemetery, so as you climbed higher and higher, the gravestones became more elaborate. Strangely enough, one the most peaceful spots I have enjoyed thus far, was a cemetery.
- People who know me, understand that I dislike shopping. I dislike it even more when it is completely catered  for Westerners. However, in Malacca, aside from the main touristy centre, the city seemed to understand exactly what it was.



          I truly recommend Malacca to anyone traveling up the western coast of peninsular Malaysia. It has plenty of nice little surprises, and of all things, seems like a city content with its own way of life. I felt like I was really exploring something a little less visited. And then of course, pool, breakfast, drinks in the hostel were a lovely touch. I was so inspired, I even made a birthday video for a friend of mine in my hostel room. Check it out.

Goodbye Singapore, Hello Kuching

Hello Everyone back in Vancouver, hope the summer is treating you well.

           My time in Singapore came to an end, and here are my parting thoughts of the city:

Flags, Flags, Everywhere!

1) Of all things, I cannot overstate that Singapore is a gateway city, and not a final destination. The only way, in my opinion, to avoid this feeling is to either work or study there. That said, it's a small island nation, that doesn't enjoy the community aspect that is associated with small island nations.

I counted thousands of flags.

2) Without a doubt, the highlight for me was the proximity of such diverse backgrounds and ethnic groups, in little pockets through the downtown area. They were natural and authentic, and not something simply put together by the tourism board. I also really appreciated the harmony of these groups, and the general pride the people have for Singapore itself. In one apartment block just outside of the city, I have not seen such a display of national pride in a long time. I even took some video of it, and will show that later.

Without question, I was excited to leave Singapore for the jungle. Kuching, while being the 4th largest city in Malaysia, is still relatively small. There is a compact downtown area, and the rest of the population is very spread out. I have very much enjoyed my 4 days here so far, and am excited about my remaining 6 days.

Here are a few photos and a bit of analysis to accompany them:

I will forever love being in a forest.

In the Jungle, The Mighty Jungle
  
       Firstly, I must say, that during the day, Kuching is the hottest place I have ever been to. The humidity is insane, and the only comfort can be found underneath the canopy of the jungle. We have been hiking a few times, which is what I am really after here. I have been missing the hills of my hometown, and the hikes with my father.

This was one lively Orangutan.

          We went to an Orangutan Sanctuary, and I will admit, this little journey had tourist trap written all over it. But thankfully, costing only 10 RM (just under $3) it is a chance worth taking. Watching the Orangutans play and eat was fun, but I still think I will never really like zoos or sanctuaries. The only one I appreciated was the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary in Brisbane; because they were simply taking care of injured animals that would have died in the wild anyway. Even though this park claimed to be training these Orangutans for the wild, how can man-made ropes and buckets of food be considered a natural environment? Maybe
my attitude has become more intense after seeing the brilliant documentary, "The Cove."

The Tracks Bed and Breakfast

Tracks Bed and Breakfast (Kuching, Borneo)

          Well all I can say here is, thank goodness for Taylor Livingston. He has been my little travel guide from afar, and he continues to lead me in the right direction. Not only is Kuching, Borneo exactly what I was looking for, but the accommodation is second to none. The Tracks Bed and Breakfast is out of this world. And at $4.75 a night, it isn't bad on the wallet either. The staff is really friendly and approachable and always willing to hang out and teach you about the local community.

Well, that is about all for now. Tomorrow we are heading to the Bako National Park. It should be an absolute dandy.

The Look

           Leading into my last day in Singapore, I have to mention one thing I find very interesting about backpackers/foreigners in this town. Wherever I go in this city, my eyes are always wondering around. There are so many things to see, so many people to watch. That has always been one of my favourite aspects of travelling; wondering around without a plan, and seeing what happens.
        
          As I left my hostel for a moment this evening, I experienced an unexpected surprise. There is a woman who works the front desk of our hostel on Dunlop Street, named "Lady." She is originally from the Phillipines, and has moved to Singapore to work and live. She saw me walking down the road (she was on her way to work) and she asked if I wanted a treat, courtesy of her. It was a wonderful gesture, and I happily accepted. She took to a place called the "Bean Curd Factory" where we tried all-things-soy. It was refreshing and healthy I'm told, but the highlight was hearing Lady talk about her life and her family.

          Amazingly her family has a tradition, where the oldest sibling leaves the home when they are old enough, to work and save money. Want to know what they do with that money? They give it to the younger sibling for their school fees. How amazing is that? So one of your responsibilities in the family, and to have a positive influence on your younger siblings, you work so they can go to school. As she is a middle child, her older sibling did the same for her. I was so impressed; Lady is absolutely wonderful, and has been a reassuring late night presence when I return to my hostel.

The Look: In-depth Analysis

          Following this wonderful little snack, I saw 4 or 5 foreigners approaching. And as always there was a quick look, followed by intentional glance away and beyond. What I mean by this is, backpackers appear to dismiss and ignore the presence of other backpackers. Firstly, the initial look, when eye contact is made is mildly frightening. Sure, there is an element of pride at stake here; "I looked at you first. Move on chum."
 Then there is the uncertainty---should I nod, should I smile, should I say hello? NONE OF THE ABOVE. The stare is unlocked, and life goes on.

         I think this happens for the following reasons: Us backpackers are trying to remove ourselves from our usual lives. We have specifically chosen these regions of the city (Chinatown, Arab Street, Little India) with this goal in mind. Seeing someone exactly like yourself, also encroaching on another way of life, you feel a little bit of shame. You are no better, and no worse than that person. You are the same. They also had the same plan as you, a crying shame! The last thing the world you want to do is say Hello to this person. Why? Because in a giant multi-cultural city like Singapore, with a population that has unique and wonderful stories to tell, here I am sharing my travel itinerary with someone just like me.

       I'm no pessimist, and yes, I have met some very interesting people on my trip. But the "original look" is what I am explaining here. When we are in a hostel it is different. It's like the calm before the storm---the breath before the plunge. In here, we prepare for battle; once we hit the streets, its game time.

        What is even stranger, is the fact that local Singaporeans have been incredibly warm, hospitable, and embraced my presence. "Where are you from?" asks the Chinese cook at the "Number #1 Best Home Made Noodle Shop" in Chinatown. "Hey Canadian. Why no Samosa today?!Come here and read your book Canadian!" yell the always persistent gentleman at my favourite Indian restaurant. These wonderful people are going out of their way to welcome us, whereas the very sight of another foreign draws us to our maps, iPods, or nothing at all.

A person I know from Kuching told me this:  

When I was younger, I didn't have a laptop, iPod, Blackberry, iPhones, PSP, Nintendo, iPad. I played outside with friends, bruised my knees, made up stories and played hide and seek. I ate what my mom made. I would think twice before I said "no" to my parents. Life wasn't hard, it was good & I survived. I appreciated the way I was raised. I think we were happier kids."

Something to think about.

 

Backpack, Khakis, and Beard

Well, it's been a couple of lovely packed days. There have been some exciting developments which I will touch upon later. I figure for the time being, I will simply tackle each topic or observation one at a time. Sound good?

The Life of the Backpacker 


       Allow me to explain how much I love this life. I wear khakis shorts about 99% of the time. I am constantly in thongs (that's why Canadians, I literally call flip flops thongs now). I usually have a homemade t-shirt on. I have not shaven in nearly 3 weeks, with no signs of using the shaver packed in my bag. I have used a headband, that a dear friend and Japanese Chef, Shinichi, gave me before I left Brisbane. It is such a comfortable lifestyle. I love the idea of carrying your belongings around with you. It represents 2 things to me: self-sustainability and a more old fashioned way of living. I have never required much privacy, so the hostel lifestyle is ideal. To quote an aussie friend, "too easy."


A Surprising Turn of Events


       I'm not going to lie. Australia changed the way my body operates. My parents will tell you, ordinarily I am an early bird. I usually worked early in the morning, really enjoyed relaxing in the afternoon, and got to bed during the week around 11:30 PM. In Australia, working two jobs I was usually sleeping 6 hours on average. Late Nights (2-4 AM). Lots of Caffeine. I was transformed into a night owl overnight. Don't get me wrong, I don't regret a second of it; its just my body was unprepared for such a rapid change of lifestyle.

       So far in SE Asia, I have next to no alcohol. I am reading like a madman. I am walking everywhere. I am going to sleep early, waking up early, enjoying and afternoon nap, you get the picture. What I am saying is, in Australia it's like I thought I was in SE Asia, whereas the opposite is true here. I'm really enjoying it.

Theft

       This is very strange to me. As I have already alluded to, Singapore is an incredibly orderly society. There is no rubbish anywhere, people follow the rules, yet there are signs everywhere saying "DO NOT LEAVE ANYTHING UNATTENDED, NO MATTER WHAT." On the subway, in the shopping malls, even on the streets. Why is this odd? Well, I felt afraid when I arrived, that I had to have my bag on me at all times. Even in an internet cafe, I would awkwardly carry my backpack to the washroom, even as the owner insisted it was ok. I have slowly become more lenient; there is a web cafe right underneath my hostel, and I am there best customer.

        The other day, I forgot my camera in a hostel lobby when I was asking for directions. I came back 3 hours later, tracing back my steps. There it was right where I left it. Good ol' Singapore. Today, I saw a sight that little seemed a little embarrassing. My favourite place in Singapore is Little India. As I am walking through a bustling neighbourhood, there is a tour group passing through. Maybe 25 people, I would say North American based on their weight, all wearing ridiculous matching yellow t-shirts. They descended from the door of their giant tour bus, into what I'm sure they were told was the "heart of Little India." They all proceeded to swing their bags around, and march single file down the street, with their backpacks on their chests. I know it is wise to be cautious, but it was halfway between hilarious and direspectful.

Tourists

          I think the funniest thing is watching the lone tourist walking down the crowded commercial streets of Orchard Road, with his $1000 handycam in tote. Anything he finds mildly interesting, he stops for about 2 seconds, raises his right arm, presses PLAY. Then he walks forward for maybe thirty more seconds, and repeats the ridiculous process. I mean, I am all for documentation of a trip. You should be trying to preserve these memories. But seriously, using a camera I could never afford, to film a bus stop?

Ice Cream Sandwiches

           Now this is something, I FILMED! Ice cream sandwiches are actually sandwiches here. The vendors have loaves of sugary, pink and green bread, and they slice a block of ice-cream with a huge knife, and slide it between two pieces of bread. How wild is that?

Next Stop: Borneo

       On the advice of the wonderful, enthuastic, Taylor Livingston, I purchased a 57 dollar round trip ticket to Borneo. I will arrive in Kuching, where I am in for a very pleasant surprise. Not only is it the birthplace of my dear friend "Chooksie," the Alexander family raised their kids in the area. I am incredibly excited for this unique opportunity.

That's about all I can think about for now. I feel like I am just typing words at this point. I hope everyone is lovely back home. It's always good to talk with mom and dad on Skype. I encourage Sasha and Milan to give me a go as well, I'm getting pretty dynamite.