As I left my hostel for a moment this evening, I experienced an unexpected surprise. There is a woman who works the front desk of our hostel on Dunlop Street, named "Lady." She is originally from the Phillipines, and has moved to Singapore to work and live. She saw me walking down the road (she was on her way to work) and she asked if I wanted a treat, courtesy of her. It was a wonderful gesture, and I happily accepted. She took to a place called the "Bean Curd Factory" where we tried all-things-soy. It was refreshing and healthy I'm told, but the highlight was hearing Lady talk about her life and her family.
Amazingly her family has a tradition, where the oldest sibling leaves the home when they are old enough, to work and save money. Want to know what they do with that money? They give it to the younger sibling for their school fees. How amazing is that? So one of your responsibilities in the family, and to have a positive influence on your younger siblings, you work so they can go to school. As she is a middle child, her older sibling did the same for her. I was so impressed; Lady is absolutely wonderful, and has been a reassuring late night presence when I return to my hostel.
The Look: In-depth Analysis
Following this wonderful little snack, I saw 4 or 5 foreigners approaching. And as always there was a quick look, followed by intentional glance away and beyond. What I mean by this is, backpackers appear to dismiss and ignore the presence of other backpackers. Firstly, the initial look, when eye contact is made is mildly frightening. Sure, there is an element of pride at stake here; "I looked at you first. Move on chum."
Then there is the uncertainty---should I nod, should I smile, should I say hello? NONE OF THE ABOVE. The stare is unlocked, and life goes on.
I think this happens for the following reasons: Us backpackers are trying to remove ourselves from our usual lives. We have specifically chosen these regions of the city (Chinatown, Arab Street, Little India) with this goal in mind. Seeing someone exactly like yourself, also encroaching on another way of life, you feel a little bit of shame. You are no better, and no worse than that person. You are the same. They also had the same plan as you, a crying shame! The last thing the world you want to do is say Hello to this person. Why? Because in a giant multi-cultural city like Singapore, with a population that has unique and wonderful stories to tell, here I am sharing my travel itinerary with someone just like me.
I'm no pessimist, and yes, I have met some very interesting people on my trip. But the "original look" is what I am explaining here. When we are in a hostel it is different. It's like the calm before the storm---the breath before the plunge. In here, we prepare for battle; once we hit the streets, its game time.
What is even stranger, is the fact that local Singaporeans have been incredibly warm, hospitable, and embraced my presence. "Where are you from?" asks the Chinese cook at the "Number #1 Best Home Made Noodle Shop" in Chinatown. "Hey Canadian. Why no Samosa today?!Come here and read your book Canadian!" yell the always persistent gentleman at my favourite Indian restaurant. These wonderful people are going out of their way to welcome us, whereas the very sight of another foreign draws us to our maps, iPods, or nothing at all.
A person I know from Kuching told me this: